Alpine savvy anchor. Works for both multi pitch and top rope.

Alpine savvy anchor. Works for both multi pitch and top rope.

Alpine savvy anchor. Avoiding a potential factor 2 fall on your anchor is of course critically important. Watch the video for a scary mom Jan 16, 2019 · Belaying directly from the anchor with a plaquette style belay device like an ATC Guide has one significant drawback - it's difficult to lower your second if you need to. Feb 27, 2025 · Retreat (aka bail) anchors need to be strong enough for a rappel, use a minimum of gear and cordage, and be simple to rig. 1) Check the boulder carefully all the way around for any sharp edges. Climber 2 builds an anchor and transfers the load by clipping their clip in bight knot to the anchor. aka 2:1 redirected haul. Then, either clip or clove hitch yourself to the draw. Use carabiners when possible to attach a runner to bolts/chains/gear. Slick! Aug 11, 2023 · A popular approach to crevasse rescue is to use a 2:1 “drop C” as the primary mechanical advantage system. Check out a recent article and video by Over the Edge Rescue on this. The best anchor hardware for doing a rope block is small chain links, or small to medium sized quick links. . Sep 1, 2021 · When you bail from a route, be at a one pitch sport climb or an alpine multipitch, the objectives are similar: Get to the ground in one piece, with each anchor point strong enough but not overbuilt, and leave a minimum of gear behind. Nov 15, 2020 · Are you top rope climbing with someone who doesn't know how to clean and lower from an anchor? Here's a simple way to rig a top rope to make cleaning and lowering safe and simple for the last person. What are they? Jul 5, 2023 · The primary safety concern is making a block in the rope that absolutely positively cannot pull through the anchor hardware. Learn some of the advantages of the drop C over the 3:1 Z drag, some easy hacks to make it work even better, and how to overcome a couple of potential problems. Let's look at some techniques and video from pro European guides showing how it's done. If you're worried about the bolts connect them with an Alpine draw and/or back it up with something. Then (if needed) you may build a second anchor and try to equalize #1 and #2. But with this Crafty Rope Trick, it's no problemo - all you need is some LSD. This post covers: anchor shelf on a tree, “casting” (not throwing) a rappel rope, block leading tip, proper tails on flat overhand knots, and a caution on girth hitched rappel rings. DIY - Gear Making & Modification Tool tethers prevent the gigantic problem of dropping an ice tool on a long alpine route. Belaying on several removable anchors: Load distribution – Tutorial (18/43) | LAB ROCK Watch on 7/22/19 4/29/19 Mar 8, 2023 · A simpler method that uses what you already would carry: Extend your rappel with a 120cm sling like shown in the alpine savvy article, be sure to tie a butterfly for ease of untying. Someday in your climbing career, you’ll need to build an anchor after you’ve pretty much run out of carabiners. Apr 10, 2019 · Do you need to fix a rope and have a stout tree available? Lucky you - this is probably the simplest and strongest anchor you could ever build. Here's a deep dive into the 2 to 1 hauling system. A similar rappel check acronym I’ve used is BARK (Buckle, Anchor, Rap device, Knot) but I was never quite satisfied with that one, because it left out securing the ends of the rope, and putting in an auto block. Even so-called “static” ropes have a little bit of stretch; they are actually about 25 percent dynamic. 4 - Pull up slack rope, put your partner on belay from the bight knot. Jun 9, 2024 · Traditional anchor building teaches always try to “equalize” the load. This secures you, and gives a convenient double loop to belay your partner. Sep 19, 2024 · Black Diamond recently collaborated with IFMGA Guide Mark Smiley to test the strength of different snow anchor configurations. Most of the time, that's probably cool, but for instructional settings or your own peace of mind, you can go one step further and use lockers on everything. ) Sep 27, 2019 · Here's an unconventional approach to anchor building - tie a girth hitch at the master point. Jun 2, 2024 · Your choices may depend on the gear that you have (sport climbing or alpine trad?) and the type of terrain you're rappelling (is it loose and blocky with large ledges, or is it steep or overhanging with hanging anchor stations?) Your height and arm length also influence what method you use. Jul 7, 2023 · The “backside clove hitch” offers several options for efficient transitions from climbing to descending. Check it out for complete instructions and step-by-step photos. You can probably clip the bottom chain links with a large HMS carabiner and simply use that as your master point. Using a cordelette to equalize an anchor is easy and strong, but it takes a lot of extra time to set up, and even longer to break down. Learn where you can maybe cut a few corners and see examples here. Alpine climbers and big wall climbers have different requirements when it comes to MA systems. Feb 20, 2020 · Here's something to consider when talking about climbing techniques - Consider using the words “never” and “always” with restraint. Nov 1, 2019 · Note - The following tip is intended for more advanced climbers to add to the toolbox, and not meant as standard practice. But in this case I will, because it can't really be improved upon. Here’s a slick method to make an anchor with the climbing rope that simply uses clove hitches Dec 4, 2023 · A strong, simple and fast snow anchor Disclaimer: There is WIDE variability in the strength of snow anchors, due to factors like depth of the anchor, what you’re using for the deadman, temperature and water content of the snow, whether you stomp down (aka work harden) the snow between the anchor and the load, etc. 2) A short Dec 7, 2023 · If you have a 240 cm length sling, it can be annoyingly long to use on a two bolt anchor, especially rigged as a quad. With the bunny ears rig, the small loop knots are usually fairly easy to untie, giving you more rap anchor material. In reality there are some nuances, and definitely some ways to letha Dec 3, 2024 · In crevasse rescue, you often build one anchor and transfer the load to it. Clip them in any direction that is convenient. Sep 22, 2024 · At some point in your alpine climbing, you’ll be forced to use a rappel anchor that’s as sketchy as Donald Trump’s tax returns. We cover toprope locker draws at this post. The meat anchor is also known as a “human anchor”. Pass the rope around the tree or rock horn, and tie an overhand knot (BHK) in both rope strands. This has two main advantages over the standard overhand knot. 1 - Leader arrives at two bolt anchor. Feb 8, 2024 · Belaying the LEADER directly from the anchor is known as a “fixed point” belay. There's a broad middle ground that gives you redundancy for your hauling system, is fast to set up, sufficiently strong, and has no knots to untie. b 1) Bolted top rope anchor. Here’s a summary. Backup with friction hitch. A normal multi pitch anchor doesn’t require locking carabiners on the bolts. You need light weight, multifunction, and hopefully be able to combine it with other people on your team to have an effective rescue. With this type of hardware it is pretty much impossible for the blocking knot to pull through. Many of them are strikingly different than those used in many parts of the world. If all you have is the ice, be aware that screws can melt out very quickly. Tie a bight knot (a butterfly works great Jan 25, 2023 · A better solution: have a second rope with you that you only use for anchor rigging and safety near the cliff top, aka a “rigging rope”. For top rope climbing, it's a generally accepted standard in the guiding and teaching world to Sep 19, 2018 · Climbing multi pitch routes with bolted, side-by-side anchors? You might want to leave the cordelette and anchor slings at home. For normal anchors, clip a carabiner to your gear placements before you clip the sling/cord. Here is a clever way to rig it so your master point is high, and it's very easy to untie after loading: tie it with a bowline on a bight. ) Premium Art Sep 19, 2018 · A majority of sport climbers are fine with using two standard quickdraws for their anchor. Click the “Get Skilled” menu link to get started. (Warning: anchor nerds only. 1,918 likes · 2 talking about this. This added friction can make your rope pull more difficult, but it also reduces the force on the anchor, which can be a good thing. The purpose of Jul 22, 2019 · Scenario: you’ve finished leading a pitch, and find yourself on a big ledge. Improve the anchor. Feb 16, 2025 · A series of quick tips on best practices. Jun 22, 2025 · So how strong is the girth hitch master point? How about if one strand gets cut? Can you girth hitch a sling to a carabiner (and survive?) Here's an overview of various flavors of anchor rigging, and links to actual break testing. Dec 5, 2020 · The German Mountain and Ski Guides Association (VDBS) published a short PDF file of recommended anchor building practices. DIY - Anchor practice board . This partially secures you while you build the rest of the anchor, and you can use the top carabiner of the draw as part of the anchor. Let’s learn some new anchor setups! Alpine Tips 7/2/24 Strength Reduction by Knots | EDELRID Knowledge Base Watch on Here’s a photo walk through of how to set up a Z drag. The concept of “opposite and opposed” applies to carabiners on the master point, not when they’re clipped to bolts. These examples are retreat anchors for bodyweight rappelling only, when you want to conserve your gear. Climbing tips and navigation resources for the savvy alpinist Mar 19, 2019 · There are lots of ways to build an anchor with just the climbing rope. Dec 13, 2018 · Here’s the modern way: always attach your haul bag to the anchor with a system that is releasable under load - the docking cord. Cost is about $5 in materials, and five minutes of your time with basic hand tools. In this post: 1) “boosting” a low anchor, 2) rope pull tip for a traversing rappel, 3) how a redirect increases anchor loading, 4) why you don't need an overhand knot on a tied loop anchor, and 5) how to set up a lower with a Grigri. You see nothing near the edge to use for an anchor, but about 15 feet / 5 meters back from the edge, there’s a nice big tree. Rebelays can also be useful in some climbing applications, such as big walls, instructional settings, or rescues. =^) Jan 14, 2025 · A common question for climbing anchors: should I use locking carabiners on the bolts/gear? It's an important topic, and there are some strongly held opinions on this, so let's have a closer look. Jul 16, 2021 · Alpine terrain can offer single point anchors like a rock horn or tree. A Munter Mule overhand, aka MMO, on a single or double May 24, 2019 · Scenario: You’re on a multi-pitch sport route, leading the first pitch. It’s not something you’ll rig very often, but in certain situations it's a very #CraftyRopeTrick to have in the toolbox! Imagine this scenario: -A rappel anchor has a long extension on it, maybe webbing or chain. You want to build an anchor on the tree, but then belay from the edge of the cliff. Nov 27, 2018 · On longer alpine climbs, bringing a cordelette gives you a ready-made source of material for rappel anchors. Mar 18, 2020 · A big wall anchor does not have to be a 25 carabiner engineering project, nor modern minimalist. Jun 10, 2025 · A double loop bowline on a bight is a good starting point for various types of anchors. What if you don't have that gear with you? Here's an alternative: Simply use a pair of 120 cm slings. 2 - On the backside of the clove hitch, leader ties a bight knot (eg, butterfly). Either of these gives decent load distribution, but they do require that you learn new knots that some people find a little tricky. Maybe we can put some of these well meaning but perhaps misinformed ideas to rest. Here's a variation, the offset quad. This secondary anchor can be SOLID gear you place, or a bolt. ) Climber 2 (middle) and Climber 3 (end) on top arrest the fall. A classic beginner mistake at a big wall anchor: clipping several ropes or slings into a master carabiner, and then realizing something that’s loaded prevents something else from being untied or removed. Some older methods are cumbersome, slow to set up, and add unnecessary clutter. Dec 27, 2018 · Rarely does Alpine Savvy post material directly from another website. Here are three methods to dial in this equalization. Apr 7, 2021 · The quad anchor, typically tied with a 180 cm Dyneema sling, is an increasingly popular choice for bolted anchors or ice climbing. May 27, 2023 · Say you’re lowering your partner from a top rope anchor, with the rope running through one carabiner. Here are some ways to hopefully get you and your partner down in one piece. Jul 20, 2021 · Alpine Savvy is an online resource that aims to improve a climber’s skills for alpine climbing, from navigation across glaciers to river crossings to multi-directional anchors. You notice that the moves to get to the runout-rather-far-away first bolt on pitch 2 look pretty hard, about at the the edge of your partner’s ability. See examples of strong and simple rigging here. A simple training board like this lets you rig just about any anchor you can imagine: top rope, rappel transitions, multipitch, and more. Aug 17, 2024 · Here's a fast and simple method to build an anchor using the rope, typically on two good bolts. Do yourself and everybody else a favor: cut away everything that's questionable and add some new material of your own to make an anchor that's more reliable and easier for others to inspect. Jul 21, 2020 · Certain configurations of anchor hardware can put a mean twist in your rope. Here's one way to use this tool: the second is lowered with an ATC on the anchor and the rope through the anchor hardware. While that’s generally true, it turns out in some cases, a very narrow angle is not so good for load sharing. 4 days ago · Five bite sized, quick tips of best practices. Cost is about $5 in materials, Sep 4, 2023 · Drop end 3:1 crevasse rescue sequence (team of three): Unfortunate Climber 1 falls in a crevasse. You arrive at the anchor bolts, and look up ahead to the next pitch. Say you need to set up a mechanical advantage system, and you only have one pulley. To increase anchor security and longevity, consider using one or even two V-threads. " Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package. Here's a way to make your own. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em. (I learned this from big wall expert Mark Hudon, thanks Mark!) Apr 24, 2023 · It's common to find a mess of cord and webbing at some alpine rappel anchors. Hans arrives at the anchor, secures himself to the anchor with a clove hitch and calls off belay. Most have links to my detailed articles if you want to learn more. The greater the angle, up to about 90°, the less force is put on the anchor. How can you do Aug 24, 2024 · Do you have a big load that you need to move a short distance? Here's one crafty way to do it: the big waller's trick of the "far end haul. Reasons to bail on a sport climb include: Mar 2, 2025 · Retreat (aka bail) anchors or not something you hopefully do very often. As your partner descends, what's the load on the anchor? Is it your partner’s bodyweight, 2x their bodyweight, or something else? Sep 30, 2019 · Here's a slick way to use a quad anchor to set up two adjacent top ropes on same set of bolts. (No, you don’t need a cordelette. Premium Article available Stay sharp and practice your anchor skills! Jul 20, 2018 · A common anchor on alpine routes is the simple sling around a boulder or rock spike. Aug 22, 2022 · The traditional method of each climber using a tether/PAS to connect to the anchor, each person untying from their respective ends of the rope, threading the anchor, tossing each rope strand, and then each person rigging for a rappel separately, involves a LOT of steps and (usually) waiting. Learn a few here. If you have just one sling (either a double length/120 cm or a single length/60 cm) and . Let's have a look at some long-running misunderstandings, myths, and hearsay. Learn some ways to set this up with slings and the rope, on horizontal and vertical bolts. But, there’s a few more tricks than the standard set up that can make your life easier. The primary reasons to use this: Prevent the belayer from being violently yanked into the air, slammed against the rock, and potentially being injured or even losing control of the belay Reduces the force on lead protection due to rope slippage Allows a greater chance of actually holding a factor 2 fall. With modern tools like a progress capture pulley and micro ascenders, crevasse rescue is usually faster and simpler. Alpine terrain can offer single point anchors like a rock horn or tree. Works for both multi pitch and top rope. For single pitch routes, “open” anchor hardware like a hook or carabiner lets the last person to simply clip and lower off; more efficient and lower risk. Aug 7, 2023 · Does it makes any difference which way carabiner gates face when you're building an anchor on two bolts? The short answer is no, it doesn't. Sep 1, 2024 · Sometimes at a busy anchor, you may have a rope on top of another one, and those two ropes need to trade places. Many experienced climbers (like Peter Croft and Steph Davis) prefer this approach, because it's simple, clean, and requires less gear. Apr 14, 2020 · Method #1 - Transfer the belay device from the anchor to the belay loop Heidi leads pitch 1, builds an anchor, puts Hans on belay, and belays him up. Aug 4, 2021 · The quad anchor is a popular choice, but usually requires a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky cordelette. This articles covers: anchor hooks, extending a quickdraw, using a rebelay to protect a fixed rope, “alpine equalization” with cams, cautions on block leading, “casting” your rappel rope, and Jun 8, 2022 · When rappelling, often the rope is going over a ledge. Apr 16, 2023 · Arriving at an bolt anchor with a small stance? A good first step can be to clip a quickdraw. This lets you do a single strand rappel on the other side. But a top rope anchor, which may be unattended throughout the day and have many people climbing on it, may benefit from having at least one locker draw. Feb 7, 2023 · Stay sharp and practice your anchor skills! If you have a simple training board like this, you can rig up just about anything you can imagine: top rope anchors, rappel transitions, multipitch, and more. Here's an elegant way to do this: the "revolving door" technique. Old, weathered webbing can be Alpine Savvy. Make a three-piece anchor with a 120 cm sling? Yep! Learn all about it here. (The climbers on top remember that Climber 1 has the car keys, so they decide to pull ‘em out. Apr 14, 2025 · Quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. All you really need is the rope you’re attached to and two carabiners. Climber 1 is now secure on the Nov 1, 2023 · There are many approaches to crevasse rescue and many choices for what gear to bring. Apr 2, 2023 · Anchors with a “closed” metal chain or ring at the bottom require MANY steps when transitioning to a lower or rappel. Leader clips a locker onto each bolt and clove hitches to one of them. Oct 14, 2019 · Here are some ways to use a locker draw. Short version: For multi pitch climbing, using snapgate carabiners on the bolts or gear is acceptable. The commercial ones work fine; however they can be a bit expensive. A rebelay is simply adding an additional anchor (s) below the potential abrasion point. 3 - Close to this bight knot, tie a clove into the second bolt. Dec 17, 2018 · On a longer big wall, with bigger loads, using mechanical advantage system to lift your haul bags can be extremely helpful. This sets up the rope perfectly for the leader to rappel. Here’s how to equalize three pieces of gear with a double length runner. Even though the boulder itself may be super solid, there are some things to watch for when using this method. A typical rigging rope is static (minimal stretch), 9 or 10 mm, between 20 and 30 meters in length. Below is a typical set up, with one locker draw Nov 8, 2023 · Alpine Tips 3/11/25 12/3/24 Improved 3 to 1 rescue haul AKA the new strand direct method Feb 21, 2020 · The anchor example below is from Dale Remsberg, a n IFMGA Certified Guide and Technical Director of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA). Learn all about it here. Some of the results were pretty surprising! Jan 8, 2024 · Continuing our dissection of ski mountaineering rappel systems, we explore various options for rappel extensions/tethers and third hands. Jun 17, 2023 · A rope block (aka Reepschnur), is a technique where you block one strand of your rappel rope to prevent it from running through the anchor. (Alex says it's his favorite, so that's what I'm calling it. Conceptually it's pretty simple. This can also be a good approach if the climbing is tough Apr 3, 2025 · Want to boost the strength of your rigging? Simply doubling the strands into a basket hitch can dramatically increase the strength, which could be helpful in some situations. Thanks to IFMGA Guide Josh Beckner @expedition_training and the See more than 600 tips for anchors, belay, rappel, wilderness skills, mountaineering, snow & rock climbing, big wall, DIY gear making, first aid, and more. This new acronym nicely covers both of those Jan 22, 2024 · Looking for a convenient and sturdy place to practice climbing anchors in town? Look no further than the nearest chain link fence. The V Clove Anchor . Jul 23, 2022 · A meat anchor is where a person (s) is the actual anchor, so other people can rappel (or maybe be lowered) directly off of them. Jul 3, 2012 · In the mountains or on long rock routes, anchor efficiency can be the difference between a comfortable finish and a forced bivouac. Learn how to spot these culprits, how to re-rig an anchor with additional hardware to minimize the problem, and a way to quickly remove twists from your rope. Provided it’s unquestionably strong, here’s an elegant way to use these single point anchors. So it’s not like you’re climbing on a steel Jun 7, 2020 · Find yourself at a chain anchor with a single huge ring or two equal lengths of chain? Lucky you, your anchor building may have gotten a lot easier. May 2, 2025 · A basic guideline for anchor building: narrow angles are good, wide angles are bad. Older PostsJoin my email - get a Premium Article sampler Oct 24, 2018 · Using a cordelette is standard practice for many climbers when building multi-piece gear anchors. Here's one application, the “fisheye”. Dale posts a lot of great climbing and anchor photos that make you really think about rigging! Follow Dale on Instagram and Facebook to keep your anchor brain engaged. You could use a bowline on a bight, or a “bunny ears” figure 8, as discussed in this post. Dec 12, 2024 · Rebelays have long been used by cavers, who know how to take good care of fixed ropes. Guest post by Canadian ice climbing expert Sean Isaac @seanisaacguiding. Sep 9, 2018 · The "wrap 3, pull 2" has long a preferred anchor method with rescue teams and others who need a super strong anchor, but this Crafty Rope Trick (CRT) can also be useful for recreational climbers. This is simply a 15 (or so) foot doubled length of 8 mm (or 7 mm) cord that’s used to tie a munter hitch plus a “barber pole” wrap to the anchor that can be easily released, even under full tension. It’s a variation of the classic sitting hip belay. Nov 29, 2018 · Trying to build a three piece rock anchor with just one double runner? The “V clove” anchor is a Crafty Rope Trick (CRT) that will let you do this. But when you need to, there are some specific requirements. Is it a strand or two of sun crusted, rock rodent chewed ancient webbing? Get out your cordelette or a sling (s) and leave those behind. Here's my crevasse rescue gear list. However, with solid bolts or ice screws, it may be faster and more convenient to build what’s called a series anchor, where all the load goes to one component and the other is a backup. There is a faster, easier, and often equally safe solution: the "alpine anchor. Being on the cliff edge lets you see your partner, minimize rope drag, have better belay communication Setting up a top rope anchor for ice climbing? Bolts or trees may give the fastest and most secure option. Let's look at a few ways to set this up. This gives you two clipping points at two different levels, which can be helpful in certain situations. See some examples, and learn why a major American climbing organization favors the open anchor. Key move: Heidi unclips the the belay device from the anchor master point, slides it down the rope, and clips what was the blocking carabiner to her 11/15/20 Climbing Accident on Mussy Hooks Watch on Climbing Anchors Mussy Hooks, Best Practices Watch on 1/14/20 Jun 22, 2025 · How strong is an overhand knot anchor in a nylon sling? How strong is an overhand knot anchor in a Dyneema sling? How strong is a girth hitch master point anchor with Dyneema? How strong is a girth hitch master point anchor with Dyneema, if one strand gets cut? How strong is a girth hitching a Dyneema sling to a carabiner? Mar 3, 2019 · A “courtesy anchor” is a concept from the canyoneering world, where generally a LOT more thought is given to rappel technique than is typical in rock climbing. You also get to bend the normal anchor building rules a bit. A few of the more common questions about MA systems and gear are covered here. Jan 2, 2023 · There are many different approaches to crevasse rescue. A new sling that can hold 20kN can cut very easily under tension combined with the sharp edge of rock or a crystal. Just watch the sap on those pine trees . See the test results here. ) . klgmcx zmm ixuwkm xqgf lbyh swk iok ruadjr gonj yaaq