How are climbing slings measured reddit. Most common applications are alpine draws, slinging e. Note the definition of Fall Factor is based on "effective rope length" - this is a valid, dynamic climbing rope, not cable or chain or static material, because their peak impact force goes off the chart, of what is allowed by the UIAA. It is tied in a loop So I've begun climbing with more slings on my harness lately, and i was curious how you guys carry them. 11- to 5. Was gonna use 2 slings to maintain contact as I climb, sort of leap frogging them, idk what thats called. Mar 13, 2024 · For sport climbing, you want full-size, wear-resistant biners on stiff, beefy slings (think Petzl Express or Trango Smooth draw). This differs from climbing slings, which are much longer, and are often tripled up to form “ alpine quickdraws ” that can easily be extended to prevent rope drag. There are some times when I've lucked out and the cam slings were in like new condition and have used them for a while. Been reading FOTH and John Long to figure out what I need to get. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. Is it as safe to weight any knotted segment as it is the ends? Depends on your local climbing area. If I'm sewing it up or it's long, I'll add another few single length alpines. UNSAFE yikes, anchored to a small shrub and a dug up root. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. We will walk you through the differences between fiber choices, strength ratings, lengths, and modes of carry, suggesting different products for different desires along the way. I'd like to tie myself to the tree as a preventative measure but I'd like some opinions on whether this would work or if I should use something else instead of a rock climbing sling. Just starting outdoor climbing. Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. There are so many different choices, and in many cases, very few differences between products. Only minor critique would be to put some sort of rope protector under those blue slings extending the masterpoint so they can’t be abraded by any meandering climbing. While this seems logical, this is not an accurate way to measure rope because most materials used in making rope are somewhat elastic. I say nylon because it has some elasticity if you accidentally shock load it. A single can work over most 4x6 rigs but is often tight to do with 1 beaner. Use two to three different drops of color to differentiate from someone else's gear. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). The label on that is the actual breaking strength of the sling, rather than the 10x safety factor you see on industrial stuff. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Tldr: slings are fucking cheap, and when in doubt buy new 1. You don't need anything except the Tindeq, your portable edge block of choice (I use the Tension Block), a couple carabiners, and a sling. While many other slings will also work for this purpose, we are convinced that the Open Loop Sling is the ideal choice. Mammut has made a new sling that's many times stronger and more abrasion-proof by making it out of twisted Dyneema wrapped in a sheath, with no connection seam Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried. g. Dec 23, 2023 · Picture a climber securing a crucial anchor point with a well-placed sling or efficiently managing rope drag by employing an extended sling – these scenarios epitomize the indispensable role that climbing slings play in ensuring both safety and efficiency on the rock face. A friend also recommended an autoblock for added safety which seems We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. This thread will be posted again every Friday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. Rope will obviously go through the quick draws at the bottom. The retailer I buy off is only offering either 8mm or 11mm in width. Mammut Contact Sling Stitching <3. How about racking nuts pre-strung on alpine draws? It would avoid the hassle of setting up a draw for every placement, the fumbling around with and possibly dropping the leftover group of nuts, and would make re-racking a lot simpler. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. Nope, it doesn't matter really at all. I mainly want to make sure they last awhile. For a PAS, I highly recommend Petzl's Connect Adjust. Such as carabiners unclipping in a fall, ropes cutting, knots failing, slings breaking, cross-loaded carabiners snapping, etc. Sep 1, 2023 · Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in the past decade. What’s up with that? My response is to ask, how was the rope measured? Generally, the response is some variation of laying the rope out and measuring it with a tape measure. I have nine 60cm alpine draws, two 120cm slings for roofs, and one 240cm sling for anchors (I have a cordelette as well for multipitch anchors). What were the conditions leading to your gear failure? Edit: As well as cams failing and nuts shearing. By far the biggest way to drop weight without sacrificing safety is to place (and therefore carry) more stoppers. Am I doing invisible damage to this sling? It seems like the logic is that it could be heated and damaged in this application. VDiff climbing says: " Don’t use a sling for anything except a prusik after using it once as a prusik. So I was thinking, I end up usually having to extend my placements due to the wandering nature of the climbing area I usually climb at and if I place 12 pieces, I end up just adding a sling to 12 pieces. Particularly, which configurations I had seen at the crag, what I use, and what the best options were for putting more together with my current stockpile of gear. Hey /r/climbing what quickdraws should I start with? I've been leading indoors for a few months and I'm super pumped about doing some sport outdoors. Makes it easy to mark a hundred or so 'biners at once. This article explains how to use slings for protection, how to rack them and more. If yes: buy fat sport draws for sport climbing now and buy lightweight trad gear when you start that up later. I don't sport climb and never Depends where you're climbing, are you anchoring using natural features or gear, have you considered static rope, are you leading the routes first or are the tops of the cliffs accessible by foot, etc. Why are slings more vulnerable to Title. I'd say it's a fine purchase, OP, particularly for sport climbing. I'm collecting all the gear I need for it but I'm confused on what I need to buy for cleaning routes. This is my shopping cart with my reasoning beside it. Thanks! Trad climbing with quickdraws is not ideal, but it works if you bring a few alpines as well for strategic extensions. Do you girth hitch each sling to its own carabiner, or do you just keep them loose on a carrier like a vault or caritool? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. Also what length dogbone should I be considering? Edit:Purchased a full rack of Petzl Axis Express draws. So a 60cm sling is made from a 120cm piece of webbing that has had its ends sewn together. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. When the rope is in play that is the dynamic component of the system. There's a certain simplicity to that and I have come to like it. With this paycheck I’m going to buy some rope and bits to make anchors. They tend to be more versatile and durable than Rope if it's multipitch, or some draws or slings if sport. I use shoulder length slings (red in mammut, yellow in petzl/everyone else) and store a couple on my harness in alpine draw style and store a couple over my shoulder already extended. I've recently acquired some 10 to 15-year-old climbing slings and quickdraws. I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. What are meat anchors? Aug 31, 2020 · We field tested 10 of the best climbing slings and runners in 2025 to see which nylon and dyneema offerings are worth your money. L. Mixed articles from climbing forums lead me to believe that Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. The different manufacturers will have published specifications for their equipment. Have people also measured that for quads and other setups? PS. is that a standard climbing knot on the black sling? I've added my own SAFE/UNSAFE/MAYBE classifications to each setup. com Nov 22, 2021 · How are climbing slings measured? Slings tend to come in lengths of 30cm, 60cm, 120cm, 240cm, and even 480cm long. Learn how to buy quickdraws. They said this was pretty thin for an anchor. 64 votes, 89 comments. Same thing can be done with prusik cords. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2* (rating oft the sling)*0. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this. 604) and the magnitude of improvement in CF%bw when going from 5. I climb mostly in Utah in rock canyon and Ibex with the occasional moab trip. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. My educated guess would be that basket and straight slings would fail at much higher strengths, and the configurations with overlaps would fail at lower strengths, especially knots. Considering this gear has never been used and has been stored properly, is it safe to use? Upon visual inspection, they appear brand new with absolutely no signs of fraying, fluffing or wear. If no: go for an all-around option. What should my next quickdraw purchases be? Individuals with different lengths of webbing? I climb with my shoulder lengths over one shoulder each with their own biner. How are force factors measured? What is a kilonewton? How do force factors correlate to kilonewton ratings on carabiners/other gear? What situations would possibly over load gear? Add any other questions you The pear shape makes for very easy placement, they bite really well, they're super flexible yet stiff when you place them, triggers are durable/easy to engage, strong for their size-range, and the sling extension is bomb. rock horns for protection, or to connect you to an anchor. CF%Bw is an incredibly strong correlation with climbing grade (R 2 =. I have been climbing for several years and am really starting to get into sport climbing. what do you guys think about racking up with the cams and slings already attached? Would it make it a bit more efficient? Or would the limited racking space from cam and draw and the cluster Can we have an ELI5 on force factors and kilonewtons? I feel like it's a really important topic that is often not talked about because it's confusing and easy to unintentionally misinform. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. When I learned to make alpine draws, I generally carry 4 alpine draws and 8 shoulder slings. When I started trad climbing I simply bought 60cm dyneema sling and converted my sport quickdraw into extendable. To measure a sewn climbing sling, follow these steps: Lay the sling out flat on a surface and pull tight, ensuring it is not twisted, kinked, or knotted. I am looking into getting a full rack of quickdraws and can't decide between the Petzl Anges, Djinn, or Express. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. L or M. Been climbing for about 8 years now, primarily indoor bouldering with some occasional trad/sport and bouldering outdoors. . A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. My double lengths go around my shoulder and clip into itself. B. The one caveat is that if you spray your ropes or slings, the wet/sticky may attract dirt which will work it's way into the fabric. For slings mark the tag, not the sling material. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. Also make sure you understand the various sling tension / sling angle configurations and use what is best for your given situation. Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. It would eat up the slings and make them less Personally, I would not but a used rope, slings, harness or helmet. This is by no means an exhaustive analysis as I have a limited amount of gear on hand, but Popular Uses for Climbing Slings Draws and extending quick-draws Slings and runners generally come in single and double sizes, with the single length being at least 2-3 times longer than the average quick draw. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I would buy (and have bought) used cams, carabiners, stoppers, climbing shoes. Very overwhelmed on where to start. Any other tips on ways to upcycle I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. Climbing slings are simply strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. Apr 12, 2019 · We tested the 11mm wide, 120cm long version, which allowed us to easily equalize two anchor pieces with a figure-eight knot. I have a double rack but I climb at the Gunks where most of the pitches aren't all that long, so I don't need an extension for every piece I bring up. Hey all, Looking at purchasing slings to make my own alpine/extendable draws. If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. For trad, however, much lighter draws work better—featherweight biners on thin, supple slings to reduce bulk and weight and provide a more flexible attachment to nuts (think Black Diamond Oz). Get the scoop on how it stands up to the competition in our review of climbing slings. From what I've read, soft climbing gear can deteriorate over time. Based on data taken from some of the Lattice guys' research papers (Giles 2020 and 2019; links below), forearm Critical Force as a percentage of bodyweight (aka your 'all-day' rate) is a huge factor in sport climbing performance. I was taught by an old school yosemite big Waller. I have a ladder that can get to the highest branch (about 20ft high, and 8" in diameter), rock climbing harness and rock climbing sling. Taking a fall clipped directly into a steel cable can create forces large enough to hurt you. Use a measuring tape or ruler to measure the length of the sling from end to end. They had a problem with the cordelette I got to set up an anchors. 8mm and just ordered a Black Diamond Positron Quickpack (12cm slings). 4M subscribers in the climbing community. 13+ is pretty massive But it can be far worse, with modern slings and anchors. Like Van Wilder said, the redundancy you are looking for is in the protection on the wall. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. Do you guys think this is safe? REI said it can be used for anchors. Has anyone tried using a sling-style bag? Any additional thoughts/suggestions? I almost only use dyneema sewn runners. The slings for alpines are fairly cheap on their own. But it's like $15 (extra vs sling) you'll live to tell the tale. Tape eventually falls off and creates trash at crags. In general you will find the 60cm and 120cm slings to be the most common and widely used lengths. This is for a solo project, I wont get into the details but im doing some urban climbing and just need some protection while climbing a tower. Now I have 8 extendable. In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. You can share carabiners between your quickdraws and alpine draws and just swap them out depending on if you're trad climbing and sport climbing. Get ~12cm long draws, that are 12-14mm thick (this is the sweet spot for weight and price). If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great Finally, is there any stats on the failure rate of these variations (like number of failure per 10,000 falls or something like that). And yes we are scared of falling. Measure from the tip of one end to the tip of the other end. These dimensions are the measure of the sewn loop. They are better for alpine draws because of their reduced bulk and flexibility. Keep slack out of your static anchors. Someone said I need slings (to hold my weight on the anchors instead of the rope) but I'm not sure what I should purchase for that. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. who else appreciates their attention to detail in having it sit flush. But, I figure in the cost of replacing the slings on used cams. Or two singles. Since your quickdraw will all be a standard length, using different lengths of runners to create a variety of options for draw lengths to use together. I believe slings are rated for the force they can withstand. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. Spray paint. Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket (s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. Is longer better, more versatile? What lengths and how many slings do you carry on your Sling 1: is under load in a single direction ( this W. Disadvantages: more potential for a tangly mess. Reddit is pretty much only useful for cool vids or general climbing news. I recently bought a lot of gear to start climbing outdoors with a few friends, and I went to my local gym to get their opinion on the quality of my gear and how I use it. 8mm x 60m Non-Dry Rope Webbing 4 x 18cm nylon sling - Runners 2 x 17cm dogbone-style quickdraw sling - Recommended by Climbit 2 x 25cm dogbone-style If you’re considering slings for hanging a ring to a hard point, I usually carry at least one single length and one double. Been pushing back into the V8 range after taking a year off of climbing during covid, which generally seems to be my plateau. All slung gear needs to be sprayed individually or have the slings covered with cardboard, but it's still a thousand time faster than tape or nail polish. Long enough to build and anchor and tie a knot in so you can clip two bolts when using as a PAS. You're good to spray them all you want, just clean it up after and you're totally fine. Also old harnesses are great for weighted deadhangs/pullups. See full list on rei. This is basically a "totally fine or retarded?" question. S is written on the tag and is what load the sling is rated for) Sling 2: has been looped over and is now spreading the load over 2 points therefore it can take twice the load. Use of slings to extend protection can indirectly reduce impact force by straightening the rope path and thus reducing friction, because friction reduces the rope's ability to stretch and absorb energy. Will deploy these while aerial pruning around my properties, and recreational tree climbing. He carried a dozen shoulder slings and half a dozen loose biners for those stopper placements. I managed to spill a large dollop on a couple of new slings the other day, and am wondering what reddit thinks? I was cleaning up my climbing gear today after an unfortunate incident during a muddy approach, and I started thinking about alpine draws. It's not at all surprising to see the load decrease significantly throughout the rep and set. Feedback much appreciated: Rope 9. I found a video of some guys testing another brand of sling rated for 24 kn, and it breaks at ~31 kn. Get a solid gate on top and wire on bottom (unless there's a more enticing deal that's solid/solid or wire 786 votes, 149 comments. I say start with 4 and add some if you need it. Sierra granite eats them up. Are they okay? I've recently acquired some 10 to 15-year-old climbing slings and quickdraws. I've been bouldering at a gym for two years and recently started sport climbing, too. In this article, we aim to help you narrow down your choices. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. The chain is attached by two bolts/anchor points in the rock at both ends of it. I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long sling. Prussics or friction knots are meant to be used for climbing ropes not cables. Aug 18, 2019 · Choosing the right climbing sling can be a difficult process. The PAS things always seemed like extra money for another piece of gear that didn't really do anything better than what I already had. 3 to 0. For an all-around sling, go with 120cm nylon. Nov 1, 2024 · An important distinction is that quickdraws have slings (dogbones) of a fixed length, and are most often used for sport climbing. 5 can vary from 0. So while climbing my stuff is well organized and easy to deal with What do you do when you take off all your slings, how do you store them/keep them organized and untangled? Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. WD-40, lube, alcohol solvents/spirits, petrol, Teflon sprays, degreaser all have no real effect on climbing soft goods. Typically sling lengths can measure between 60 to 180 cm. If you're on a budget, maybe the long knotted sling would have been more cost effective but both do the job, and there some real conveniences to the PAS. We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of Backpack or sling bag? I've been climbing with backpacks over the years and not had much problem while leading but recently my bag was a big issue. Climbing slings like that have pound-force ratings (giggity) rather than pound mass ratings. edit: Also quick and easy to do a bucket load of stoppers. I recently got a Tusk Superdry 9. Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. 1. I generally In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. It's super simple to use, and really easy and fast to adjust and reset. You’ll also probably hear different opinions (including some along the lines of “the companies just want It's time to retire some of my climbing gear. Most useful sling lengths? What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. I know the responsible thing is to destroy the gear to make sure nobody ever uses it, but it feels super wasteful! I already made a nice rope doormat a few years back, and slings/or anything loop shaped can be used to organise quickdraws, biners etc. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. I got this cordelette, which is only 8mm wide. As… Reddit's rock climbing training community. What are your thoughts on using this as an anchor for top roping? Is it safe? The two carabiners at the top will be locked to a thick steel chain. Considering this gear has never been used and has been stored properly, is it safe to use? Upon visual inspection, they appear brand new with absolutely no signs of fraying, fluffing or The Tindeq allows you to measure maximum voluntary contraction at each given time, whereas with weight on a loading pin or sling you're limited to the MVC of the last second of the last rep. The sling is a mammut magic sling 120cm (dyneema centre with abrasion resistant nylon sheath). I was just wondering if there is any issue with getting suncream on slings. They are also light for alpine stuff. Nail polish. Mar 2, 2016 · To find the best sling width, make a choice with the following factors: intended use, material type, handling / dexterity, price, weight and mental comfort -- all explained in this post. " Is this a good rule? I have been using a dyneema sling as a third hand backup to go hands free while rapping/cleaning routes. What is better static rope? Or slings? I was going to buy 2x 120cm slings and maybe like 6m of static rope for when I need a bit more? Is 6m enough? Should I buy more? Or 2 lots of static rope? Longer slings? More selection? It will mainly be top rope, but I have been learning to lead Been a long time since I used 60 cm nylon slings for the last time. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. So you need to know exactly what length fits your requirements. I recently got a Tindeq and the thing that I really like for is continuing to train while traveling or on days I can't get to the climbing gym. Using a sling and carabiner to a harness will not have a load limiter or shock absorber to reduce forces if you fall. What is the ideal sling length? The length of the sling determines what you can use it for when climbing. I'm always reading about being wary of chemicals contacting webbing/slings/harnesses and such, but I'd never really thought about suncream. But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. In Korea where sport climbing is plentiful so stocking up on my first serious gear buy. The two Really depends on the scenario. That's all been replaced by dynema slings. I was hoping to get some opinions. The home of Climbing on reddit. Just don't use +1 Head over to Mtp if you want decent advice. It also makes for an easy way to to extend my A full setup for JUST sport climbing, where everything is bolted is as follows: harness, rope, full rack, belay device, a PAS of some sort, and an anchor build with the slings and biners. I still use the odd 120 cm nylon slings here and there, as it's a little bit dynamic and it's easier to untie knots. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I started with 4 which in most cases was enough, I was using extendable only when needed and using my sport draw for when I needed no extension. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Setting up anchors Slings are Elongation of sling material is marginal and irrelevant except in the special case of direct tethering to an anchor. This article covers carabiner size, shape and gate, as well as sling length and how many quickdraws to have. That’s why every complete set of climbing equipment includes a wide variety of slings in various lengths and materials. Edit: For the rope I use nail polish again on the smooth and hardened melted ends of the rope. This review includes 12 of the best and most popular choices available today, which can be used for extending protection to reduce rope drag, building and equalizing anchors, and even as threads or slung Sep 25, 2020 · What length is best? Slings tend to come in lengths of 30cm, 60cm, 120cm, 240cm, and even 480cm long. What were the placement conditions / fall factors involved? Is it alright to use a knotted sling as a personal anchor system? I know daisy chains are discouraged for the obvious reasons, but is a knotted sling relatively bulletproof? I assume so, but having been surprised by counterintuitive safety hazards I figured it best to ask. atwa ebms mnesrk iffuq jyqhtv iethbvh aoestn kefdoev fnngp lfnh
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